Put in a car. Get its most profitable parts.

The top money board — every vehicle, ranked

The single biggest verified parts in the whole database, across all vehicles — built from the live dataset, so it can never drift from the cards above. The lesson in this list: the top of the money is dominated by complete assemblies and exact part numbers, not by whole categories. A headlight is $1,300 a side on one Buick and pocket change on most cars.

Fast movers — strong sellers worth real money

Big money that sits for a year is a loan to the yard. These are the priced parts flagged “sells strong” — many documented sales in the check — at $150 and up. When two cars in a row both have one of these, pull the fast mover first.

Best vehicles in the database

Vehicles ranked by the total verified catalog value of their priced parts (the sum of each part’s top sold price). Depth matters more than the total: a vehicle with 13 priced parts gives you a plan for the whole car; a vehicle with one giant part gives you one shot. The biggest single part on each vehicle is named so you know where its money concentrates.

How a verification check actually runs

“Verified” on a card means these five steps happened, in order, on the date shown. Anything that fails a step stays unpriced — that discipline is why listings currently show no number.

1. 1
   Search the sold side onlyeBay is searched with Used + Sold + Completed switched on, sorted by price, highest first — the house method, and the same search the “eBay sold check” tab builds for you. Asking listings are never opened for pricing.
2. 2
   Match the exact partSales are matched on the exact part number, trim, transmission and fitment years — not the part’s family name. The 1998 Tacoma’s manual ECU ($910–$1,097) and automatic ECU ($300, one sale) are recorded as two different parts because they are.
3. 3
   Throw out the outliers and bundlesSales that bundle extra parts, include programming services, or sit far outside the cluster are excluded and the exclusion is written into the card’s notes — like the $249 Tacoma bezel sale that was really a bezel-plus-climate-control combo.
4. 4
   Record the range, the sample and the dateWhat survives becomes the sold range. A range built on one or two sales is stamped “few sales” and its verdict is capped at Maybe — the database currently carries of those, flagged instead of hidden.
5. 5
   Recheck, and correct in the openStale entries are re-run against fresh solds. When the first number was too high, the card is flagged “Corrected after recheck” and the honest range replaces it — entries carry that flag right now, including a Lexus RX400h HID headlight and a Toyota Venza head unit.

Read a result like a pro

Every card packs six decisions into a few lines. Here is exactly what each one means — and what it doesn’t promise.

Sold rangee.g. $680–$999 Sold

The low-to-high band of actual completed eBay sales found in the check — not one asking price, not an average of listings nobody bought. A wide range usually means condition, mileage, or whether the part was tested moves the price. Price the one in your hand honestly inside the range.

After eBay fees≈ 85% of sold

The sold range minus roughly 15% in eBay fees. It is shown before your yard cost — subtract what the counter charges you to get your real margin. Shipping is on the buyer and is never deducted, by house rule.

Pull it / Maybe / Skip itThe verdict

Pull it = solid money (low end $75+) with steady or strong sales behind it. Maybe = real money but a catch — thin sales history, a part-number trap, or a yard price that could kill it. Skip it = under $30 at the top of the range; not worth the bolts unless it’s a tiny, cheap-to-ship part you’re already standing next to.

Sells strong / steady / thinSell-through

How often the part actually sells, judged from the sold results — many recent sales (strong), a regular trickle (steady), or only one or two documented sales (thin). A $900 part that sells twice a year is a different bet than a $120 part that sells every week. Thin parts are priced, but flagged in the open.

Verified / Corrected / Few salesThe trust badges

Verified = checked against sold listings on the date shown. Corrected = a recheck found an earlier number overstated, so it was replaced with the honest range — 21 listings in the current database carry that flag, on purpose. Few sales = verified, but from a small sample, so treat the range as softer.

Part numbersRead them first

On modules, the number is the money. Example from the data: a 1998 Tacoma manual-transmission ECU (89661-04410) verified at $910–$1,097, while the automatic version is a different, much thinner part. Photograph the label before you unbolt anything.

Check before you pullThe orange box

The condition trap that kills this specific part’s value — cracked headlight lenses, split dash tops, a missing HID ballast, a torn bench seat ($255 torn vs. $700 complete on the Jeep Comanche in the data). If the trap is present, the sold range no longer applies.

Category field guide — what each kind of part demands

The four categories behave like four different businesses. Counts are the live dataset; the handling notes are what the verified cards repeat, category after category.

Modules & Electronics

Where the deepest money is. ECUs, ABS actuators, clusters, amps. Small and light, so shipping is the cheapest on the list — but the most part-number-sensitive category in the database: priced and unpriced listings carry a specific number, and on modules the wrong digit is routinely the difference between $900 and nothing. Work pattern: photograph the label, confirm the number against the card, then unbolt. Bag connector hardware with the unit and protect the pins.

Interior & Trim

The biggest category — and the most condition-ruled. Bezels, dash tops, seats, consoles, emblems. Small trim is the yard’s easy money: minutes to pull, pennies to ship, and the small-parts rule applies (a $20 emblem with strong sell-through is worth taking). Big pieces flip the math: seats and door panels are bulky, freight can eat the margin, and one crack or tear collapses the price — the Comanche bench seat in the data is $700 complete and $255 torn. Inspect before you touch a tool.

Mechanical

Heavy iron, real money, real risk. Differentials, transfer cases, throttle bodies, motors. The money concentrates in the special versions — a Torsen limited-slip carrier ($799–$1,100) vs. an open diff, a factory e-locker third member ($650–$900) vs. the open version ($500–$600). Confirm the special version is actually fitted before you commit (dash button, axle code, actuator). Anything that needs a jack and a second pair of hands is a helper pull: scout and value it solo, pull it with help. Weigh it before you list — buyer shipping on a Tacoma front diff ran $85–$120 in the verified sales.

Lighting

The smallest category with the simplest rule: uncracked or worthless. HID and adaptive units are the money ($165–$460 a side in the data); halogen versions of the same lamp can be a third of that, so identify the lamp type before pricing. Take the ballast bolted under the lamp — it’s part of the value — and pull lamps straight out: the locating pins and tabs snap if twisted, and a tab repair has to be disclosed. Pack like glass.

What’s in the database — all of it

Counts below are the live contents of this page’s dataset, checked October 2026. 213 of 309 listings (68.9%) carry a verified sold price. The other 96 show no number at all — that gap is published here instead of being hidden behind an average.

What changed Oct 30 — the latest verification pass

Source for everything below: eBay Sold + Completed + Used checks run Oct 30, 2026 (Pass 5), covering sales from Aug 1–Oct 30, 2026. Fourteen entries changed: priced coverage climbed to 213 of 309 listings, and every newly priced card now shows its actual recent sales — listing title, price paid, and sale date — under the range, so you can see the proof instead of taking the number on faith.

1. 1
   Eight entries verified against real salesInfiniti EX35/FX35 body control modules verified at $90–$160 and selling strong (~46 sales). Honda Element window visors beat their claim — all 3 genuine sales at $199.99–$200 against a $156 claim. Also confirmed: 1996 Dodge Dakota ECU/PCM $118–$180 (~14 sales), 2002 Mitsubishi Montero center dash bezel + vents $139–$170, 2007 Toyota Tundra cluster bezel $80–$165 (~29 sales — now carrying its part number, 55410-0C020), VW Beetle Convertible glove box $115–$200 (35+ sales), 1994–97 Dodge Ram steering wheel $100–$186, and Honda Accord shifter cables $120–$200 selling strong (~25–30 sales) — the cables’ fitment years were blank and are now set to 1998–2007 from the sold examples.
2. 2
   Five numbers corrected down, in the openMiata soft top latches claimed at $149.99 really sell $37–$99 for latch pairs (~20 sales — nothing genuine reached the claim). Honda Element ignition lock cylinder claimed at $149.99 really runs $75–$132 across 12 sales. Also corrected: 1986 Ford F-150 radio/heater bezel, $149.99 claimed vs. $85–$100 real; 1994–97 Dodge Ram parking brake assembly, ~$165 claimed vs. $107–$129; and the 1978 Mercedes 450SL driver-side mirror, $150 claimed vs. $70–$130 (the one $149.99 sale was a sponsored placement and was excluded). All five cards carry the “Corrected after recheck” flag.
3. 3
   One thin price, flagged as thinThe 1996–2000 Toyota RAV4 under-dash ECU (89661-42250) was claimed at $139.99–$161.95, but only one genuine sale turned up in the window — at $59.98, well below the claim. It is priced at that single sale and flagged “few sales” rather than presented as proven.
4. 4
   Removed for zero genuine salesThe rear targa trim for the 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol was removed entirely: the check found no genuine sales to price it from, and a part with no documented sale doesn’t get a number here.
5. 5
   Still open — stated plainly96 listings remain unverified and show no price. The dataset now stands at 302 catalogued entries: 153 verified, 19 corrected, 32 flagged few-sales, 98 still waiting on a check — 204 priced in all. Eight of the 302 are general entries with no single vehicle fitment (factory amplifiers, door panels, center consoles, console lids, sun visors, bezels, emblems — all still unverified); this lookup is vehicle-first, so they aren’t carried as cards here.

The money math, worked in the open

A sold price is a starting point, not a paycheck. Here is the full chain, using a real entry from this database.

1. 1
   Find it in the data1995–2004 Tacoma ABS pump + module assembly (89541-04010): verified sold range $680–$999, checked Oct 30, 2026. One documented sale hit the full $999.
2. 2
   Take the fees offAt ~15%, $999 sold leaves about $849 before yard cost. The range after fees is $578–$849 — that’s the “after eBay fees” line on the card.
3. 3
   Subtract the yard, honestlyWhatever the counter charges for that assembly comes off next. This is why some parts flip from Pull it to Maybe at expensive yards — the same Tacoma throttle body that sells for $120–$250 is dead if the yard rings it over $100 by size, a trap flagged right on its card.
4. 4
   Respect what the math excludesGross spread is not net profit. Your time, testing, returns, storage and unsold parts all come out of it too. A $100 part that pulls in five minutes and sells in a week can beat a $300 part that takes 90 minutes and sits for months — which is why sell-through sits next to every price, and why future ranking aims at return per hour, not just top dollar.

What it costs — the locked-in ladder

This web lookup is the working prototype and is free to use here. The pricing below is the model locked in for the phone app after review by three independent advisor panels — credits first, because pickers work in bursts: heavy one weekend, nothing for six weeks. A monthly bill doesn’t fit that; a bank of lookups does.

How this stacks up against the other tools

Competitor facts checked Oct 29–30, 2026 from the sellers’ own pages and terms. Where a claim couldn’t be verified publicly, it says so.

Coming next: Yard Mode & the phone app

The web page you’re using is the prototype. The phone app wraps this same database — nothing is thrown away — and adds what a yard actually demands.

1. 1
   Yard Mode — any yard, not one chainThe app scans the inventory of the yard you name and returns today’s ranked pull list — the $149 human product, automated at $99, with the human tier kept on top for judgment calls. No yard names or locations ever appear in a public product.
2. 2
   VIN scanPoint the camera at the VIN plate and the vehicle loads — no typing with greasy hands. Planned for the Android app via the camera; the year/make/model picker here is the fallback that always works.
3. 3
   Offline in the yardYards have terrible signal. The dataset is small enough to live on the phone, so lookups and saved pick lists keep working in the back row with no bars — an edge the web-only tools can’t match.
4. 4
   Android first, on purposeOur pickers are Android users, and the competing Android shelf is thin. A new Google Play account also needs a closed test — 12 testers opted in for 14 straight days — before publishing, so that clock starts before launch, not after. iPhone users keep this web version.
5. 5
   History, not just today’s priceEvery verification is kept as an observation, not overwritten. Over time that answers questions a fresh asking-price database can’t: is this part rising or fading, how often does it really sell, and which parts return the most per hour of pulling?

Pull-day playbook

The traps below are pulled straight from the condition notes in this database — each one has cost somebody a part’s whole value.

• Photograph the part-number label firstModules live or die by the number. One digit off can be a $900 part or a $0 part (Tacoma MAF 22250-20020 sells; the near-twin 22250-07020 has zero sales).
• Lenses: uncracked or walk awayHeadlights and taillights across the data repeat one rule — cracked = worthless, however high the range. Check tabs and mounting pins before you twist anything out.
• Take the complete assemblyABS actuators, HID ballasts bolted under the lamp, locker actuators with 4–6 inches of harness — the missing half is often half the value.
• Dash tops and bezels: no splits, no cracksPlastic trim is the biggest category in the database and the most fragile. A split WJ dash top is garbage; a clean one is money.
• Ask the counter price before you commitSome yards price by size or guess high on electronics. If the counter number eats the after-fees margin, the verdict flips to Skip — leave it.
• Note the details that move priceCluster mileage, seat tears, steering-wheel color and cruise fitment all shifted verified prices in the data. Write them down at the car, not from memory at home.
• Heavy iron is a two-person callDifferentials, transfer cases and engines carry real money — and real injury risk. Scout and value them solo; pull them with help.
• Build the pick list as you walkAdd parts in the row, in order. The running total keeps you honest about when the car has stopped paying.

Sell it right — getting the sold price, not just finding it

A verified range is what the part can bring. These are the listing habits that decide whether yours lands at the top of the range, the bottom, or not at all — including why listings stall.

1. 1
   Title it the way buyers searchYear range + make + model + part name + part number, in that order: “1998 Toyota Tacoma ECU Engine Computer 89661-04410 Manual.” Module buyers search by number first — a listing without the number in the title is invisible to the highest-paying searches. Fitment years in the title matter the same way: PT Cruiser dash pads sell titled 2001–2005, because the dash changed for 2006 — title yours for the years the part actually fits, not the years of the car you pulled it from, when the two differ.
2. 2
   Photograph the proofLead with the part-number label, then every angle a buyer would inspect: connector pins, mounting tabs, lens clarity, dash-top surface, seat wear. For clusters, show the odometer reading. Buyers pay top-of-range for documented parts and discount anything they have to guess about.
3. 3
   Price inside the range, on purposeTop of the range is for tested, complete, documented parts. Untested or missing its companion piece (a ballast, a harness pigtail, the dash switch) belongs mid-range or lower — and say so in the listing. Pricing a thin-history part at the very top is how listings sit: if a part was selling and stalls at a fair price, check the title’s part number and fitment years, the shipping charge, and whether Best Offer is on before touching the price — those four bury more listings than price does.
4. 4
   Say tested or untested — never blur itThe verified data separates them for a reason: a tested Acura TSX navigation unit carries the value, untested units sell lower. An honest “untested, sold as-is” at the right price outsells a vague listing that buyers read as a gamble, and it keeps returns and disputes down.
5. 5
   Ship it like the category demandsModules: small box, pins protected, hardware bagged in. Lighting: pack like glass, tabs padded. Trim: rigid backing so bezels can’t flex and snap. Heavy mechanical: weigh and measure before listing, and price freight honestly — on bulky pieces (seats, consoles, center consoles), local or freight math decides the deal before the part does.
6. 6
   Work the stall before you cut the priceListings decay in search as they age. If a correctly priced part stalls: confirm the part number and fitment years are in the title, check your shipping against the sold listings’, turn Best Offer on with a floor you’ll accept, and refresh the lead photo. Cut price last — and only toward the middle of the verified range, never below its floor in a panic.

The yard kit — and the two-pass walk

Everything the condition notes in this database assume you’re carrying, plus the order to work a car in so the money comes off first.

• Trim tools before screwdriversPlastic pry tools and panel-clip removers — most interior money (the biggest category here) dies from a pried crack, not a bad market.
• Socket set + Torx + hex keysModules, seats and lamps mix fastener types on the same car. A Torx bit left at home is a $300 part left in the yard.
• Phone, fully chargedYour camera is a yard tool: part-number labels, cluster mileage, VIN and axle codes, and the condition shots your listing will need — all taken at the car.
• Marker, tape and small bagsLabel every module with year/make/model as it comes off, and bag its bolts and pigtails with it. At the bench a month later, an unlabeled ECU is a guess.
• Battery pack or jump boxPower lets you test window motors, seat tracks, sunroof motors and clusters before you pull — tested parts price higher across the data.
• Gloves, kneeling pad, headlampBack-row cars are dark inside and low underneath. The cheap comfort gear is what makes a careful inspection possible.
• Pass one: walk and photographFirst pass is scouting only — VIN, options, part numbers, condition traps. Build the pick list from the photos before a single bolt turns.
• Pass two: pull in money orderWork the pick list top-down. When the car stops paying — counter price eats a margin, a trap shows up — stop, even mid-list. The list is a plan, not a debt.

Part words, in plain language

The shorthand that shows up on the cards, translated once so it never has to slow you down at a car.

ECU / ECM / PCMEngine computer

The computer that runs the engine (and, as PCM, the transmission too). The single most part-number-sensitive part in the database — the same car can carry a $1,097 manual-transmission version and a $300 automatic one.

TIPMTotally Integrated Power Module

Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep’s combined fuse box and power-control module. A known failure part, which is why demand — and prices — stay up on otherwise ordinary cars.

ABS actuator vs. moduleTwo different parts

The actuator is the hydraulic pump assembly; the module is its electronic half. Cards price them separately because buyers do — a Discovery 2’s complete modulator brings $95–$200 while its ABS ECU alone is a $33–$53 part.

BCMBody control module

The computer for lights, locks, windows and accessories. Water damage kills value — several cards say skip it if the car shows water intrusion.

E-locker / TorsenThe special differentials

An e-locker is a factory locking differential (Tacoma: dash button + actuator + axle code B03A). A Torsen is a gear-type limited-slip carrier (Miata: $799–$1,100). Both are worth far more than the open differential in the same housing — confirm which one is fitted before pricing.

HID / AFSPremium headlights

HID (xenon) lamps and AFS adaptive versions that steer with the car are the lighting money; halogen versions of the same housing sell for a fraction. The ballast — the lamp’s power unit, often bolted underneath — is part of the part.

NATS setNissan/Infiniti security

On QX4-era Nissans and Infinitis the ECU only works with its matched key and immobilizer parts. Sold as a set — ECU alone is a much weaker listing.

Sell-throughHow often it sells

The share of listings that actually end in a sale, judged here from the sold results and shown as sells strong / steady / thin. It’s the difference between a price and a payday.

Core / complete assemblyWords that move money

Complete assembly means every bolted-on companion piece is included — bracket, ballast, actuator, switch. Cards repeat it because the missing half is often half the value. A core is a rebuildable unit sold for its housing and internals, priced well below a working part.

Straight answers